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Adventures in Nepal XVIII: Swayambunath, the Monkey Temple

January 29 was Emma and Elizabeth’s last full day in Nepal. They started with breakfast at the hotel and exploring the hotel grounds.

Good advice for us all:

Emma’s mom had arranged for the girls to have a guided tour of Kathmandu. They were both feeling better after a good night’s sleep, but to be on the safe side they opted to wear masks for the remainder of the trip.

The first stop was Swayambunath, the “Monkey Temple.”

The monkeys of Swayambunath are considered holy. According to Buddhist lore, Manjushri —- the bodhisattva of wisdom and learning who raised the hill that the stupa is on —- let his hair grow long. He got head lice, and the lice transformed into the monkeys.

Overlooking smoggy Kathmandu:

More to come!

Categories: Animals, Covid-19, environment, Family, food, Friends, Holidays, Life, Nepal, Travel | Tags: | 2 Comments

Adventures in Nepal XVII: Back to Kathmandu

While we were sorting through the photos for this post, I realized that I am hopelessly confused about the family relationships between all of the friends Elizabeth made at Paljorling Camp. I think the older couple that I credited in an earlier post as part of “the family next door” are actually the couple in whose home Elizabeth and Emma stayed, but I’m sure the younger man is their son and Elizabeth says he definitely lived next door with two brothers and someone she thought was his mother. I may never figure out who is related to who and in what way, but I deeply regret any hurt feelings I may have unintentionally caused by misidentifying people in earlier posts. I am so grateful for the kindness and hospitality Elizabeth received during her stay among the Tibetans. She returned home with a lively light in her eyes that had been missing for too long.

On January 28, their last morning in Pokhara, Emma and Elizabeth had breakfast with the family next door.

Then they all said their formal goodbyes.

The khatag is a traditional Tibetan silk scarf that is presented ceremonially on special occasions, in this case the parting of friends.

A family member drove the girls to meet their bus.

Goodbye Pokhara!

Goodbye Himalayas!

It’s a long eight-hour bus ride from Pokhara to Kathmandu. But the scenery is nice, even in the rain.

The Prithvi Highway follows the winding course of the Trishuli River from Pokhara to Kathmandu. I only know the name of the river because I just now looked it up, and I also found this reassuring paragraph on Wikipedia: “Trishuli River is also one of the dangerous river of Nepal. The curvy Prithvi Highway is a bad fate for many Nepalese people traveling to and back from the capital. Every year, several buses and trucks fall and disappear into this wild river, making the corridor a dangerous pass for people.”

The bus stopped for lunch at the Riverside Springs Resort

The girls stretched their legs and had a nice lunch, and then continued on.

Their bus did not fall into the river, so that was nice. But after they arrived in the city and checked into the Kathmandu Guest House, Emma mentioned in our Messenger group chat that she was not feeling well. Fever, weakness, fatigue.

I made some awkward coronavirus jokes and then said that maybe she should wear a mask to be on the safe side. We speculated on what would happen if she still had a fever at flight time. Elizabeth said nothing during the chat, but told me later that she had felt ill too. They both went to bed early and had a restful sleep.

That same evening, a senior medical adviser at the US Department of Veterans Affairs wrote in a group email to public health experts in the governmennt and universities, “Any way you cut it, this is going to be bad. The projected size of the outbreak already seems hard to believe.”

More to come!

Categories: Family, food, Friends, Holidays, kids, Life, Love, Nepal | Leave a comment

Adventures in Nepal XIV: Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave

The stream called Pardi Khola flows from the Phewa Tal Dam and rambles through Pokhara before running underground, over Patale Chhango and through the sacred Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave. The waterfall and the cave are a short walk apart, each with their own colorful entries to lure in visitors.

After Emma and Elizabeth had seen Patale Chhango, they did some shopping before visiting the cave. Emma was searching the shops for a particular item her mother had requested. Elizabeth wanted to find a Tibetan restaurant for lunch, having developed a preference for Tibetan food over the spicier Nepali fare.

The fancy red archway in the next pic is the entrance to the outer temple at Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave.

Walk past the archway and continue around the corner, and you can look down into the temple courtyard.

There are four Tibetan settlements in Pokhara. One of them, Tashi-Ling, is just up the road from Gupteshwor Mahadev.

Colorful mural on a city street.

Lunch destination acquired!

Yum!

After lunch they returned to explore the temple and cave.

The temple architecture is really beautiful.

This is a statue of Lord Vishnu sleeping on the coils of the thousand-headed serpent king Ananta. But to me it looks like Trump having a bad hair day.

Adorable Elizabeth is adorable. Moo cow!

Going underground:

Signs were posted requesting that people not take photos inside the sacred cave. Emma and Elizabeth mostly complied with this, but they (and everyone else in the cave) did get this pic of the stream flowing in from Patale Chhango.

This awesome Ganesha stature was near the outer temple exit:

More to come!

Categories: Artwork, food, Friends, Holidays, Life, Nepal, Travel | Tags: | Leave a comment

Weekly Sketch: J is for Juniper

I dabbled in color this week.

I’ve always known juniper berries were used to flavor gin, but I never really thought of them as edible until my uncle came to visit us in Austin and we took him hiking around Mount Bonnell. It had been a rainy winter, and the juniper berries were exceptionally big and round and vibrant. My uncle got very excited and started eating them right off the trees. So I tried some. To my surprise they were sweet and tasty, although the pits were a bit piney. I am now a fan of the humble juniper!

Categories: Artwork, environment, Family, food, Health, Life, Nutrition, trees, Weekly Sketch | Tags: | Leave a comment

Adventures in Nepal XII: Quest for Fruit Snacks

The only notable activity on January 24 was a search of the Pokhara markets for a particular kind of fruit snacks that Emma wanted Elizabeth to taste. Once the snacks were procured, our young heroes returned to Paljorling camp to relax.

This was the day that China’s entire Hubei province went into quarantine. In Vietnam, the first confirmed incidence of human-to-human transmission outside of China was documented by the WHO. The second case of coronavirus was confirmed in the US.

This is a short post, so here is a bonus random water buffalo that the girls saw roaming the streets near Sabita’s house on their way to Disneyland.

To be continued!

Categories: Animals, Covid-19, food, Friends, Holidays, Life, Nepal, Travel | Tags: | 2 Comments

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