Holidays

Thanksgiving Road Trip, Part III: Zion National Park (1/2)

Read Part II here

The drive from Horseshoe Bend to Zion National Park is a pretty one that passes through alien rockscapes and cute little towns. Our weather alternated between heavy overcast, drizzling rain and snow flurries.

We crossed the border from Arizona into Utah a little after 11 am, and arrived at the East Entrance of Zion National park just before 1 pm. (Please ignore the nice windshield crack.)

I keep using the word “phenomenal” to describe the scenery on this road trip, and it keeps being the right word. I just wish I’d had a better camera to do it justice.

The texture of these rock structures reminded me of Mexican pan dulce:

Just a boy and his adventuremobile.

We pulled off the road at a random trailhead to stretch our legs with some rock climbing. That turned out to be one of our favorite parts of the trip. The high-desert terrain made us feel at home.

The views were great.

 

Got back on the road and continued on through the park.

We stopped for one more short explore, but the weather wasn’t right for creekbed hikes. We resolved to revisit this park in a warmer season.

The scenic drive down Zion Canyon Road was closed to cars for the season and only accessible by shuttle bus. So we drove to the museum, but this end of the park was crowded and we couldn’t find a parking spot. We continued on to the Visitor Center at the South Entrance.

We parked the truck at the Visitor Center and boarded a shuttle bus, which took us down the scenic Zion Canyon drive. Amazing scenery.

There are nine stops along the route, and you can get off and on at any of them. But by the time we boarded it was 3:30 pm, and the last bus departed from the farthest stop at 6:15. If you missed it, you had a looooooong walk back to your car. So we stayed on the shuttle all the way to the last stop, and only got off to explore the trail that runs along the Virgin River to the slot canyon known as the Narrows.

And that is a post for another time, because I have a bazillion more pics and some of my readers live in places with Internet connections that struggle with massive web pages. So…to be continued!

 

 

Categories: A Plethora of Parks, environment, Family, Holidays, kids, Life, Road trip, Travel, Weather, Winter | Tags: | 1 Comment

Thanksgiving Road Trip, Part II: Horseshoe Bend

Read Part I here

Horseshoe Bend is a meandering loop of the Colorado River in northern Arizona. To see it, you pay to park in a lot just off the highway and then walk about a half-mile to the eastern rim of the canyon. There’s not much else to say about it, except that it’s a phenomenal sight and a national treasure. I’ll let the images speak for themselves.

Look closely at the shoreline below. There is a campground down there with people, tents and a vault toilet.

Rocking my 1970s-vintage puffy vest and mismatching windbreaker, because I am stylish that way.

We had allotted an entire day to Horseshoe Bend, thinking that we might hike down to see the petroglyphs on the canyon walls. Turns out you can only see them from the river, via raft or kayak. So by midmorning we were back on the road, heading northwest toward Zion National Park.

Lots more to come!

 

 

Categories: A Plethora of Parks, environment, Family, Holidays, kids, Life, Road trip, Travel, Weather | Tags: | 1 Comment

Thanksgiving Road Trip, Part I: Mesa Verde National Park

A few months after we moved to Colorado in 2020, one of Luke’s coworkers at the time sold him an elderly Saturn for cheap so he wouldn’t have to keep riding a bicycle to work. It was an “as-is” cash deal for a car with over 200k miles on it, sold for the express purpose of keeping Luke showing up to work on time as the weather got colder.

Regardless, the first time Luke got a few days off work in a row he drove out alone into a February snowstorm, heading north through Wyoming with the rather nebulous goal of seeing Seattle. The Saturn took him as far as Oregon before its battery died forever at a rest stop in Weatherby. Luke had it towed to a garage near the Idaho border, where they put a new battery in and sent him on his way. Newly cautious, he gave up on Seattle and came home via Utah. Thank goodness for cell phones and the Internet; without them I would have had to sit at home wondering if he was still alive instead of getting to enjoy his philosophical ramblings on Messenger as he formed snapshot impressions of blue-collar industrial cities like Boise Idaho and the ubiquitous Mormon presence in Utah.

He sold the Saturn to one of those cash-for-junkers companies the following May, when it started overheating due to a leaking gasket, and bought an old Camry that had over 220k miles on it. Once again, the first chance he got he took off alone to try his luck on the open road.

When most people talk about “seeing the country,” they usually mean visiting its iconic cities and landmarks. Luke uses the phrase in a more literal sense: he wants to see what America looks like. The empty stretches and the tiny small-town museums and the winding mountain roads and the mills and factories with their busy smokestacks. He wants to see what it’s all about. On this second adventure he headed west, dropped by Anza to see his dad, then drove up the coast. This time he made it to Seattle, and came home via Montana and Wyoming. He’s done a few more solo road trips since then. His current adventuremobile is a late-90’s Toyota pickup that handles rough conditions better than the Camry can.

The idea of doing road trips the way Luke does them gives me the shivers. Just picking a compass point or a region of the country, finding a road that goes in that general direction and taking off in a cloud of adventurous optimism…that is not my way. I spent literally months planning every last detail of our 2022 Pacific Northwest road trip, just to make sure we didn’t miss anything good or fall behind schedule or end up in unnecessary danger. I am not as reckless as I used to be.

A few weeks ago, Luke realized he would have a four-day Thanksgiving weekend. For him that meant one thing: he got to do another road trip. He bounced around a few different ideas and then decided on a smallish loop that would take him through Steamboat Springs Colorado,  Salt Lake City Utah and Horseshoe Bend in Arizona.

As it happens, Horseshoe Bend and the Great Salt Lake were on my bucket list. And seeing them sounded like more fun than cooking a turkey for just myself and Elizabeth. Luke was fine with me joining him. Of course I immediately started checking out the route, and pointed out that Zion National Park was not too far out of the way. Well, that was on Elizabeth’s bucket list, and so was nearby Bryce Canyon National Park. Luke said fine, we could all go together, but if we were visiting Zion and Bryce, then he wanted to see Mesa Verde. By this point we had realized that four days wasn’t going to be enough, so we used PTO to take off an extra two.

After some discussion, we decided to reverse the order of the stops and do Mesa Verde first instead of last. We left home Wednesday night at midnight to beat the holiday traffic, and rolled past the Mesa Verde park sign around 7:45 the next morning.

We had planned to buy an America the Beautiful annual pass at the entry kiosk, but the park was a ghost town. We did not see a single worker the entire time we were there. Presumably they were all home with their families for Thanksgiving.

Luke needed to sleep, so we pulled into an out-of-the-way parking spot inside the park and took a long nap. This turned out to be the best sleep we got on the entire trip. More on that later.

After our nap, we checked out the Park Point Fire Lookout.

This is the highest point in the park. From here you can see all the way to the southern edge of the San Juan Mountain range.

I haven’t yet replaced the camera that was drowned on the PNW trip, so all of the pics from this trip were taken with either the fisheye lens of my GoPro or the noisy camera of my phone. Hard to mess up the subject matter, though.

You can’t go into the cliff dwellings except on an official tour, and tour season is over for this year, so we were only able to view them from a distance. Still very cool, though.

The canyons themselves are as impressive as the dwellings. Phenomenal views.

Adventuremobile barely visible in background:

Some of the old ruins are protected from the elements inside large sheds.

This one is in the open at the top of a cliff.

It reminded me a little of some of the older Spanish missions in San Antonio.

We had a great time exploring. Still no one at the kiosk when we left the park. I would have felt guiltier about the “free” visit if we hadn’t bought the annual pass at the next park anyway.

From Mesa Verde we drove southwest to Horseshoe Bend in Glen Canyon Recreation Area. The entry gate is closed after hours, so we spent the night in the quiet corner of a Walmart parking lot in nearby Page.

Up till now I thought I’d gotten the best sleeping arrangements of our trio. The pickup has a camper shell (missing a back window, but one makes do), and we had put our old futon mattress into the bed. Pure luxury, especially since I had it all to myself. Luke slept on the front bench seat and Elizabeth slept on the rear bench seat.

So it turns out that on cold nights, the futon mattress basically fills up with cold air and just sucks all the heat out of your body. You cannot warm it up. I had to use one of my blankets as an insulating layer between me and the mattress, and then I didn’t have enough blankets on top. No more comfy nights for me until I got back home.

Worth it though! Who needs sleep anyway?

To be continued!

 

 

 

Categories: A Plethora of Parks, environment, Family, Holidays, kids, Life, Road trip, Travel, Weather | Tags: , | 1 Comment

Resolution 2023

At some point in my life…well, I don’t need to be vague. It was after my marriage ended. I started to value honesty more than kindness. I would much rather someone be honest with me than kind to me, although being both is certainly a nice bonus. Over the past decade, my search for honesty has left me pretty cynical and jaded. There’s so little of it out there. I’ve just come to accept that most people have responded to the traumas and uncertainties in their lives by rejecting hard truths and coasting on a winding river of ever-changing illusions and manipulations. I don’t really hold it against them, but it makes them fundamentally unreliable. I have catastrophic trust issues.

But a byproduct of all this is that, in my mostly futile search for honesty, I have come to undervalue kindness, both in others and in myself. It’s been years since I put any real effort or thought into being kind. I mean, I have manners, I’m not an asshole (usually). But just as I would prefer someone be honest with me than kind, I’ve focused on seeking out and expressing truths and not given much thought to nurturing kindness in myself.

But objectively, I know that kindness matters. And I know that it matters a lot more to most people than it does to me.

So my New Year’s resolution this year is to become a kinder person. Not just to act more kindly, but to somehow find my way back to the part of me that valued and appreciated kindness. I kind of miss being that person, although I certainly don’t miss the naïveté that motivated me back then.

Is it possible to be both irredeemably cynical and genuinely, authentically kind?

Let’s find out!

Categories: Holidays, Life | Tags: | 10 Comments

Road Trip 2022, Part XI: Crossing the Desert

We left Sequoia National Park and started looking for someplace to stop for lunch. Every eatery we passed was overcrowded with cars and people, so we kept driving until we came to a picturesque but oddly empty Mexican restaurant. As we pulled into the parking lot we made a few jokes about how terrible the food must be if no one wanted to eat there. Turns out the joke was on us. The food was…subpar, to put it kindly. Luke ordered a chocolate shake with his meal, and the waitress apparently misheard him, because she brought him a slice of chocolate cake. Luke accepted the cake, but asked her to box it up to go. Later that day, many miles down the road, we pulled out the cake only to discover that it was riddled with mold. Luke is still salty about the whole experience.

In Keene we detoured off the highway to visit the grave of a personal hero of mine, Cesar Chavez. The gravesite is a National Monument at Nuestra Señora Reina de la Paz, where the United Farm Workers of America is headquartered. The visitor center was closed, but the graves and memorial gardens were accessible.

A heady mix of jasmine, mock orange, roses and other fragrant blossoms rolled over us like a warm wave as soon as we opened the car doors in the parking lot. Most of the garden plants must have been chosen for their scent, because the place smelled amazing.

“It is my deepest belief that only by giving our lives do we find life.”

There’s also a desert garden here, a tribute to Chavez’s birthplace in Arizona.

After we’d paid our respects, we returned to the highway and continued southeast. We passed a rusty old boat with “SS Minnow” painted on the side…

…and crossed another segment of the Pacific Crest Trail. That was satisfying, like a bookend. And then, rather suddenly, we were out of the foothills and into the Mojave Desert.

I can neither explain nor fully describe the stupefying effect this desert had on us. Luke and I took turns driving in short shifts of an hour or two at a time, because that was all we could manage without dozing off at the wheel. Our Fellowship of the Rings audiobook, that had entertained us through a few tedious miles earlier in the trip, now required more concentration than we could muster. Fast music was an annoyance, slow music was a sedative. We drove in silence, two of us sleeping while the third struggled to keep their eyes open enough to stay on the road. It was like that field of cursed poppies in “The Wizard of Oz.” After everything we’d seen and done in our travels, the Mojave Desert nearly defeated us.

We were briefly roused by a middle-of-nowhere travel stop called the Cima Mining Co., that lured us in with promises of exotic jerked meats (Alligator! Elk! Buffalo!) and fresh date shakes. Alas, most of the jerkies were too caliente for our taste. But we did find some really good maple-wild-boar jerky, and the date shakes were great. That kept us mostly awake for the rest of the way to Las Vegas.

We had planned to walk around Vegas a bit, but the combination of lingering desert grogginess and Memorial Day Weekend crowds squelched our enthusiasm for sightseeing. We settled for driving down the Strip instead of bypassing it completely.

We pulled into a small truck stop to spend the night, but the whole parking lot was flooded with lamplight. As tired as we were, we couldn’t sleep there, so we dragged on to another, more vagabond-friendly travel stop.

We woke up the next morning with a single goal: make it home that day. There was nothing left on our to-do list, no more sights we wanted to see. Or so we thought!

I was not prepared for the beauty of central Utah. Here among the plateaus and canyons, our sense of urgency faded and we stopped often along the highway to get out and admire the views.

I had finally traded in my marino wool top, jeans and leggings for tee shirts and shorts back in Sequoia. Now the air was chilly again as we climbed back up into the higher elevations.

 

As we crossed back into Colorado, the weather was almost identical to what it had been when we left: lowering skies, raining off and on.

As eager as we were to get back to our own beds, we made one more stop on the way: we picked up dinner to go from our favorite local Chinese restaurant. Colorado has a reputation for lacking diversity, but if you know where to look you can find really wonderful authentic food from all over the world.

It felt nice to be back. It felt like coming home.

Categories: A Plethora of Parks, Death, environment, Family, food, Holidays, kids, Life, Road trip, Travel | Tags: , , , , , | Leave a comment

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